Pindari Glacier Trek - Day 1

Had a wonderful first Himalayan trek to Pindari Glacier during Dushera Holidays of 2009. Thanks to Indiamike and many of its members, including ks_bluechip, ganeshs_16 and amarshah who made clarified and my doubts and with their posts made my planning much easier.

After my initial research in Indiamike, tossed up with the idea with my brother-in-law Sriram who agreed and suggested that his brother Srinath (Srihari) will also be interested. During a casual chat my colleague Chetan too agreed to join.


Travel to Delhi & then to Haldwani – 25th September 2009 (Day 1)


On reaching Mumbai Airport, was informed my GoAir flight was delayed and will depart at 1820 hrs instead of 1710 hrs. Also, Sriram’s flight from Bangalore was to leave at 1730 (instead of 1610 hrs). The flight finally took at 1915 hrs (Chetan’s at 1900 hrs) and landed in Delhi at 2125 hrs. It was 2145 by the time I came out. Srinath had booked Easy Cab to reach Old Delhi (DLI) Station. Our train, Ranikhet Express to Kathgodam is to depart at 2235 hrs. Easy Cab driver drove like how Michael Schumacher does at his favourite Magny Cours Circuit. Reached DLI at 2245 hrs and ran towards the platform. It was 2251 hrs when we reached the platform to learn that the train left a minute back! As advised by some members in Indiamike, we proceeded to ISBT Anand Vihar to catch a bus. No Government (Uttrakhand Transport Corporation) bus was available. Also, the information counter was deserted.


We had no option but to take a private bus, which I repent even today. We were approached by ‘touts’ who warned us that there is no Govt bus and the last private bus for Haldwani is to leave shortly. Though we were aware of the private bus issue, it was destiny that we experience it. We took all necessary precautions. We asked him to show the bus, the seats we would be allotted etc before paying. We were shown two “sleeper berths” to be shared by four people. After securing those berths, couple of our team members boarded the bus and occupied a sleeper and I paid those touts. The moment the second batch got in, we were told that there is no second sleeper and we need to sit in the cabin near the driver. Immediately I rushed down to see touts missing from the place. After fighting with the so called owner (who was literally a dada), finally we got two seats in the last row!


Got into the bus at midnight and were informed that it would leave by 0030 hrs. It was 0050 hrs and no sign of bus starting. Passengers started abusing and then we realised some passengers had boarded the bus at 2300 hrs. The bus immediately started and in 10 minutes stopped for a tyre puncture. Finally it started at 0120 hrs. At 0230 hrs, the bus stopped in a dabha for dinner / breakfast (whatever you may call). By then I was asleep in the horrible dirty sleeper which I shared with Chetan. Sriram and Srinath were in the last seat. It was 0300 hrs and no sign of bus starting from the dabha. When passengers vented their anger, the driver told that he is waiting for the permit to enter Uttarakhand as he did not carry it while leaving Delhi. By 0330 hrs, somebody came in a motorbike from Delhi to handover the permit after which the bus proceeded towards the destination.


At 0530 hrs, the bus reached Moradabad, the constituency of ex-Indian cricket captain Mohd Azharuddin. We swapped our seats and sat in the last row. When the bus reached Rudrapur at 0715 hrs, a sleeper got vacant and we shifted ourselves. Finally we reached Haldwani at 0830 hrs. The cabbie in Haldwani told us that bus is called Hina Tours & Travels and is known for its “accomplishments”. If by any chance, Mr. Shashi Tharoor, the Honourable Minister of State of External Affairs reads my blog, I would request him to take a ride in Hina Travels to see what cattle class is!

..... Day 2 & 3

Trek to Mahuli Fort

Planning for Trek

With my family away, I was thinking what I should do for the weekend. After attending to some personal work on Saturday, decided that I undertake a trek in Sahyadris on Sunday, the 23^rd August 2009. Being a Ganesh Chaturthi day, I was quite sceptical on whether there would be some treks organised. With Internet, you can conquer the whole world and it did not take me more than 5 minutes to check the available treks.

Opened the site http://www.mumbaihikers.org/ and got the options available. Saw a posting by Shalom Adventures on a trek to Mahuli Fort. Opened their website – looked to be professional and decided to go with them. A call to Miron Joseph and the plan was finalised. As the plan of Miron was to assemble in Dadar Station, I told that I would board the same train at Thane. After agreeing with Miron, started working on the stuffs to carry.

First in need was a rucksack. I did not have a good rucksack/back pack. Went to Great Outdoors India, Thane and bought a rucksack and a torch. Went to Spencer / Reliance fresh and bought some snacks and now I was all set to go for the trek next morning.

History of Mahuli Fort

A brief history on Mahuli Fort as posted by Shalom Adventures in their website is given below :

The creator of this fort is unknown. In 1485 this place came under rule Nijamshahi dynasty. When Shahaji Raje became the secretary of Nijamshahi, Mughals of Delhi tried to end Nijamshahi. In 1635-36, Shahaji Raje transferred himself with Jijabai and Shivaji to Mahuli. When Khan Jaman attacked the fort, Shahaji asked Portuguese for help, who refused and Shahaji surrendered. Shivaji took this fort from Mughals on 8 Jan 1658. In 1661 it was given back and was won again by Shivaji. In treaty of Purandar, in 1665, Marathas lost these forts again. In Feb 1670, Shivaji Maharaj tried to conquer Mahuli, but failed, bcoz of an alert Manohardas Gaud, who was in charge of the fort. Thosand of Marathas were killed. Manohardas Gaud soon gave up his position and Alveerdi Beg took over. On 16 June 1670, afer two months, Moropant Pingle conqured the forts and Mahuli, Bhandargad and Palasgad became part Swarajya. Till 1817, Shivaji's dynasty owned the fort and later by Britishers.

Travel to Mahuli Village on 23^rd Aug 2009

Got up at 5 a.m. After bath and some pooja on Ganesh Chathurthi, was all set to leave for Thane Station. The Central Railway timetable bought some years back came handy. Train to Asangaon reaches Thane at 7.06 a.m. Decided to leave home by 6.15 a.m. Finally left home at 6.20 by car. Parked the car in Thane station at 6.40 a.m. Went to the ticket counter, got the tickets by 6.50 a.m. Got a call from Miron saying that the train had reached Nahur station (which is two stations before Thane) and also got the details of coach they were in. Met Miron and other team members – Sanjay, Preeti, Shefali and Bhaskaran in the train. The train reached Asangaon at around 8.20 a.m. Came out from the platform, took a rickshaw to Mahuli village.

Mahuli Village

Mahuli is the base village. Mahuli is a small village with few families residing. Went to the house of one Mr. Krishna, where Miron had arranged breakfast. Had tea, a good plate of Poha and another cup of tea. We set off for the trek at 9.40 a.m.

The team in front of Mr. Krishna's house

The Journey

It was a walk through some fields for about hundred metres. Then we had to cross a stream. There were some stones and we had to walk through. While stepping on the last stone, I slipped and kept one foot in water. Shoes and socks were totally soaked. The first climb started. It was bit humid and started sweating like anything. 45 minutes into the trek, I started panting. Finding bit difficult to walk, i.e., the smooth walk has stopped and now finding difficult to take the steps. My speed also reduced and stops were frequent. Used to stop for a few minutes, take deep breath, wait for the heart beat to be normal and again started my climb. Sanjay, being a very experienced trekker was very fast and I followed him. Bhaskaran is a veteran undertaking treks every weekend in the Sahyadris. Had to wait for quite some time for the other team members. We could see them from a distance but they were stationed in a particular place. The place where we were standing was a forest area and mosquitoes were swarming. Luckily the Odomos repellent cream I was carrying came handy. Later came to know that Shefali had decided to return. After the other two joined us, we five started proceeding.

Mahuli Fort from the trail (L), trek trail (R)

A wait of almost half an hour gave me some energy. My speed had increased a bit. But Sanjay and Bhaskaran were flying. So, I slowly kept moving after taking small breaks. Miron and Preeti also were with me. When I reached a particular point, I saw Sanjay and Bhaskaran had conquered the summit. But I was totally tired. Will power and the fact that the summit is near kept me going. Miron and Preeti were not to be seen. At one place where I was taking some rest, decided to have biscuits. Opened a pack of Glucose biscuit and a lady trekker was crossing me. I offered her the biscuits but she politely refused citing she doesn't have energy to have the biscuit!!

A flower in the forest (L), me with greenery behind (R)

At one place there were two routes. Did not know which one to take? A lady was also confused and she asked me. A shout to Sanjay and we took the left one. Had I taken the right one, would have got totally stuck as it was very steep. Couple of trekkers were sitting on the trail and taking rest. When I went, they were thinking whether to move or I could manage. I asked them to stay where they were and said, will adjust and go.. Immediately the guy replied, "Only a trekker can understand another trekker". After a distance, while I was resting, those trekkers crossed me. I did not move and told them "thanks for returning the favour".

It was getting hotter though I had reached a height of 700 mts above sea level. Wanted to somehow reach the summit and it was almost 12.40 p.m. Finally, took the final ladder and reached the summit at 12.50 p.m. The photo on the right shows me flashing Victory sign just before the final climb. All I did was throw my rucksack and lied down for almost 15-20 minutes. A cool breeze (literally cool that made Bhaskaran shiver) brazed through. It was totally foggy all around. Once the fogs got cleared, Found that Miron and Preeti had stopped at a place due to some problem. They had then started and we estimated they would take atleast half an hour. But they took the right route which was steep and got stuck.

Me at the top with clouds surrounding (L), views from the top (R)

We decided to visit a cave which was there. The cave was wonderful with water on both sides. There was also a temple. Took some pics.. Found that the group coming behind were stuck somewhere. Started climbing down at around 1.30 p.m., met them and decide to take our way back to reach the 5.30 p.m. bus. While coming down, there was a sort of plateau. Had our lunch at around 2.30 p.m. and again started walking down at around 3 p.m. Reached the stream at 4 p.m. Miron told that there is a waterfall very nearby (at a walkable distance of 15 minutes). In 10 minutes, we reached the waterfall.. A good one.. Took bath and started our way back at 10 minutes to 5. By 5.05 p.m., Mahuli village was in sight. With the assistance of a local, took group photograph with Mahuli Fort at the background. It was almost 5.10 p.m. and while enquiring with him on the bus, he told that it was at 5 p.m. Later he said that bus is yet to come and within seconds confirmed arrival of the bus. We couldn't spot it but he has heard the sound of the bus. A totally worn out ST bus welcomed us and dropped us at the Nashik highway. A brief 'trek' of 15 minutes, we were near Asangaon station. After a plate of Misal pav and special chai, we were in time to catch 6.15 p.m. local. Reached Thane at 7.30 p.m. and reached home.

Inside the cave (L) and temple (R)

Best part was everything was on time for us – be it the ST bus or catching the local. It summed up a wonderful first trek for me in the Sahyadris.